The day we left for Andavadoaka – wake up at 4:45 to leave by 6 as we had to pack the Camion. To try and describe this – picture a cattle truck, complete with the metal bars over the top and tarpaulin: this was to be our chariot. This is an authentic mode of transport for the Malagasy people and here we were embracing the experience. Suitcases were packed, then mattresses placed on the floor and last but not least – people. There were 14 BV people and 3 Malagasy stowaways all crammed in the back. We stopped for breakfast in a small village along the way (3 hours into the journey) and had their local rice cakes (Mokare) and doughnuts (Bokoboko) for 100 Ariary each – it certainly wasn't fantastic but we soon learnt to love the local cuisine. We went and all emptied our bladders in their local latrine area – all expertly dodging large animal (and human excrement) as well as animal carcasses and more human excrement. After wringing our kidneys dry we hopped back onto our chariot and continued. The chariot stopped and we found we had a puncture – this was repaired and we drove for a further 20 minutes and experienced the same problem. At that point we decided to have lunch: dry baguettes, cheese and tomatoes. To eat the aforementioned lunch you had to bite each thing and put it all in your mouth to give yourself the illusion of a cheese and tomato sandwich. We each had an apple and then waited for the chariot to be ready, taking bets on when we would leave and devising games to keep us entertained. We eventually left and drove into the night and suddenly the radiator overheated, so we stopped again and our driver and his buddies walked to the next town to bring back some water. On the road again – once we passed the Italian Hospital, we knew we were close. We drove through the Village of Andavadoaka and were welcomed by BV and its staff. Relief! Less than 200 km in 14 hours 15 mins – world record I reckon. We were welcomed, took our bags to our cabins and headed up for supper. More information on the meals will follow in the next instalment.
WELCOME TO ANDAVADOAKA!!!!!
We woke up to a not so beautiful Madagascar morning complete with a sky full of clouds and a temperature that wouldn’t cause any profuse sweating. We headed off to breakfast at 08:00 which was soon to become routine. Breakfasts usually consisted of mushy rice pudding, 3 slices of freshly baked bread and tea or coffee. We had honey on the table; sucre au lait (condensed milk) and normal sugar and sometimes something that closely resembles butter but doesn’t melt. Tea is made as such: 1 tsp suc au lait plus tea equals breakfast tea. Yummy. At our first breakfast morning we were given a timetable for that day – consisting of science training and other introductory talks to Blue Ventures and what they do. Our first 2 days were introductory talks and pretty much stuff to get us up to speed. I would love to give you day by day accounts of our 6 weeks here in Andavadoaka but we have a routine which is repeated weekly, so the few things that do stand out will be detailed. We work on a 6 day week where we have 5 days of diving and 1 off day. Our weeks looked something like what I have mentioned below but this would change with certain activities.
Monday – Malagasy lectures
Tuesday – Teach English to staff and eco-guides
Wednesday- Something would be keeping us busy
Thursday – Malagasy lessons
Friday – English lessons
Saturday – English lessons at school in village
Good background. Hope the food tasted better than it sounds :-)
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